1800 Gallon Landscaper Pond Kit
Supersize your pond!
Finally, a kit that provides you with everything that you need for a Professional Garden Pond
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Are you an experienced pond builder? Or are you a landscaper who is looking for an affordable source for pond supplies? Pond kits are the foundations that will provide you with the essential equipment required to successfully design and install a pond. With larger ponds, it's worth your value to invest in a pond kit and to minimize both the risk of mistakes, and to minimize the cost associated with the supplies required. Pond kits are extremely affordable, and usually come with easy-to-follow instructions. Our professional grade pond kits come with everything that you need to install large ponds up to 4000 gallons in size! For example, our 1800 gallon pond kit (depicted above) comes complete with:
This entire kit can be yours for as little as $1500! [ ORDER ONLINE NOW ] |
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Installation Instructions
Here's how easy it is to install our 1800 gallon professional pond kit:
Step one - Planning
Measure the dimensions of your space. Create a water garden plan, based on these dimensions. Sketch out what you would like your completed pond to look like.
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View recommended water garden setup for 1800 gallon landscaper kit ]
After you have agreed on your water garden plan, the real work begins. Mark the pond area with garden hose. When you're satisfied with the shape of the pond, use powdered limestone or flour to mark the final shape. Lay the pressurized filter, UV clarifier, skimmer, and plumbing in place.
Step two - Excavation
Hired help will make this laborious task easier. You may need to rent a backhoe to excavate the site.
Dig out the coping shelf area (approximately 2 to 4 inches deep and 15 inches wide). The purpose of the coping shelf is to support the stone veneer to hide the pond liner.
Optionally, you can also dig a bog shelf for plants. Most ponds are designed with shelves 9" to 12" below the water surface.
Excavate the main pool of the pond to about two feet deep. The deep area should slope in approximately 20 degrees from the vertical. Attach string lines running the length and width of the pond, and check the level of all shelves in all directions.
Carve out a 4-inch-deep basin just above the main pool, toward the waterfall area, as an interior level to create a cascading effect. Also dig out two 16-inch-deep holes at opposite ends of the pond to hold the skimmer box and Bio Waterfall Filter unit. Finally, dig out a few shallow plant pockets in the pond floor for setting aquatic plants in later.
Carve out a small basin to hold the UV clarifier beside the pond.
If you want to install a stream or a waterfall (see step #6), you will need to excavate a channel for the water. Streams can be set in level ground. A stream only needs a one-inch drop in elevation per ten feet to affect a flow from the top down to the reservoir. When you are digging out your stream, dig deep enough to allow for the thickness of all the rocks and up to three inches of water (and 3-4 inches above that). Dig your channel wide enough to accommodate the widest section of your stream.
Step three – Skimmer Installation
Set the skimmer box into the hole at the end of the pond, with the drainage hole facing out toward the pond. The skimmer should be set so that the top of its mouth is no less than 1 inch above your intended water level. Make sure that the skimmer is level and secure. The MaxFlo pump will be installed inside the skimmer llater.
The Bio Waterfall Filter should be set into the hole at the opposite end of the pond than the skimmer.
Step four – Laying out liner for pond
Before laying the pond liner, cover the pond area, extending over the pond shelf, with underlayment and tuck it into pleats to conform to the shape of the pond. Cover the fabric with the heavy-duty (45-mil-thick) pond liner. Use caution, because even a small tear can result in a leak. You can use stones to weigh down the pond liner in the center of the pond.
Try to minimize the folding and pleating of the liner, because folds have the potential to trap dirt and debris. If you are worried about debris collecting in the folds, you have the option of sealing the folds with seaming tape. To do this, form each fold as a large triangle, and secure it with double-sided seaming tape. Sealing the fold makes it less obvious, keeps debris out, and prevents small fish from being trapped.
Cut a rectangular hole in the pond liner with sides that are 1" shorter than the rectangular opening of the skimmer. Connect the hole in the pond liner to the skimmer, using PVC tape.
Step five – Positioning of Pumps, Underwater lights, UV clarifier, and pressure filterPosition the UV clarifier inside the small basin (that you dug in step 2) beside the pond. Using tubing and clamps, connect the output of the MaxFlo pump to the UV clarifier. Connect the output of the UV clarifier to the input of the Bio Waterfall Filter. The output of the Bio Waterfall Filter will be used to feed the streamlet (or top tier).
Set up the SuperFlo pump in the middle of your pond so that it circulates and filters the water from the bottom of the pond. The SuperFlo pump also creates a fountain spray.
Position the underwater lighting at the bottom of your main pond. Underwater lighting is usually set up so that it shines into the SuperFlo water fountain (from below).
Step six – Building waterfall/stream
Every waterfall or stream must be lined to prevent water loss. During the excavation process, you should have dug out sides that are high enough to prevent water from splashing out. Lay out the flexible (10’) liner on the ground between the top of the waterfall/stream and the pond (for the water channel). Ensure that the waterfall liner overlaps the pond liner by several inches. The width of the water course needs to narrow where you plan to have it go over the falls. Put stones in the narrow area and use flat rocks on top of them. Your flatrock (spillstone) should slope slightly toward the lower pond and project over the foundation stones directing the water out rather than down. This will make a nice sound as it spills into the lower pond. Bring your liner up the sides of the water channel at least 12 inches. Tuck the liner back into the soil and hide it with rocks. Run water to test the flow of the falls. After you are pleased with the results, you can mortar the stones into place on top of the liner as you would to install edging.
The output from the Bio Waterfall Filter will feed the top of your stream.
Step seven – Backfill topsoil
Use excess soil to backfill around the edges of the pond and the watercourse channel. Expanding foam can be also used in the watercourse channel to ensure that water does not leak.
Excess soil should also be used to partially bury the UV clarifier and the pressurized filter, to conceal them both from view.
Step eight – Build retaining wall (if required)
If your installation site has uneven elevation, you may require a retaining wall. A retaining wall is built simply by stacking stones around the pond.
Step nine - Fill the pond
Start filling the pond with water. Smooth out wrinkles in the liner as they occur. Cut off any excess liner, but make sure that enough material is left to allow the liner to extend over the coping shelf, and underneath whatever edging is planned. Anchor the liner with boulders or long nails around the edge.
Step ten - Add edging materials
Add edging materials to weigh the liner down. Edging materials may include sod, and any rocks or boulders that you may have available. Edging materials also help to hide the liner to produce a natural look.
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